![]() when i parked on the street i didn't see any spots, only when i am on the elevated driveway.i am thinking i've had some leak prior to having the indy shop do maintenance work but he said if its something we did we will cover it for free.that is still TBD.Īnyways, i checked my coolant level by opening the compartment and it very low, i couldn't see any fluids in there. i took it to the indy shop and said to bring it back in a few days to leave the car with him to investigate further. I had my car serviced at an indy shop two weeks ago and after that i've noticed when i parked in my driveway ( elevated from street level) i noticed a round spot of coolant ( i thought it was oil initially). i've seen it twice before and i've topped it from the dealer for free those times. its not the 'first' time i see the light. In a similar situation with low coolant light. But there's a big difference between gliding to the side of the road and gliding to the earth, and that's why a lot of people don't spend money they don't "have to". If my BMW were an airplane, I'd do the preventive maintenance and so would most drivers. For most people that is an expense they are not willing to pay unless there is a current problem, not a potential problem. I agree with Miller that if you want to be sure of minimizing problem potential, then replace the stat at 60 and the rad at 100. But is that a good idea? Would I get into one of these cars and leave for the West Coast. Shockingly, some have original hoses and thermostats. I have many BMWs with well over 200K miles and the original radiator. Any performance car is going to have to have its cooling system in good shape to avoid overheating. Since horsepower is nothing more than heat, the more HP you have, the more heat you have to remove. If a leak develops due to age or abuse, or the system is neglected then problems with overheating can occur. The components are as good or better than the competition. Trolling a little bit? That would be pretty close to 50/50 and it wouldn't really matter if it was off by 10 to 20%.My experience is that the cooling system design is adequate for proper engine cooling. Lol um.you know that isn't a 50/50 mix right?! Not the most scientific drinking cup there ![]() ![]() This is the first time I have had to add coolant since I bought the car new in Feb 2008. I added 24 ounces ( 0.7 liters) of 50/50 mix to raise the floating level indicator to between the low and high indicators when viewed on an even plane with the filler neck. The BMW coolant is a blue color I have never seen before. My level indicator in the reservoir was quite far down and not even visible when viewed at a low angle. It needs to be diluted 50/50 with distilled water. It cost me $8.35 (also available on GetBMWParts website for $6.68. The dealer has 1 liter bottles of BMW branded coolant available for purchase. My coolant indicator illuminated as well. Would a low coolant light warrant a coolant change even though I'm going to need a water pump in the near future and will more than likely have it changed them? Kinda want to know how to handle so it doesn't happen when my girls in the car and I'm no where near my Indy mechanic. It seems that there are mixed reviews on preventative maintenance on E90 water pumps and that just wait until it fails. My plan of attack is to top off the coolant and see if it comes back on to determine if there is a leak, even though I religiously check under my car for anything leaking and haven't noticed anything recently. My current Mileage is ~73K and I experienced the low coolant light this morning. ![]() I should have elaborated/provided more information in my initial post. You'll get yellow/orange t-stat (overheat) warning then red and next will be the low coolant light (pictured by OP).įor the record, you're looking at a $1000-2000 if you're experiencing a water pump & T-stat failure. Earliest that you'll encounter this issue is around 60k miles (for me it was at 59,8xx one month ago). You'll know when you're faced with a water pump/ T-stat failure. ![]()
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